Happy Easter, I hope yours was great and full of love, happiness, sugar, family and all that jazz! I know my Easter was great, it pretty much kicked it in the the pants.

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Laird Hamilton Big Wave Surfing Phenomenon 

This is Laird Hamilton, He is one of my surfing heros. This is him surfing the Teahupoo. He changed surfing history on this wave. 

Dude just imagine wiping out on that wave!! Wooooo-eee!! It would just be an amazing ride. Surfing is so much fun. When I first wanted to start surfing I was 10, and the video I watched that really really really inspired me was Mike Parsons wave he rode for in the Billabong Odyssey surf film. Its so amazing!!

Isn't that just incredible?

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Greg Noll

He definitely is one of the big wave surfing greats!! He was one of the pioneers of big wave surfing. He surfed in the days when there was no leashes, flotation devices or helicopters. So if you wiped out, you were on your own! 

He is not only famous for his big wave boards and his amazing surfing abilities, but he is also famous for his jailhouse baggies that he would wear when he would surf. 

Isn't it amazing? Greg Noll's body was inside those board shorts!! I'd kill for a pair of those. Dude back in the day, if you didn't have baggies, You were not a surfer. Word of advice, get some baggies!!!

Big Wave Surfing History Lesson

There was your brief history lesson on big wave surfing, I hope you enjoyed it! I would love to experience how they lived for several years. I would just love that. Living off the land, eating pineapple, eating stolen chickens, fishing for clams and other sea-ish creatures and surfing 8 hours a day. That would be such a blast!

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Big Wipeouts 

This is Keala Kennelly, She is one tough chick! She was surfing the Teauhpoo for the Billabong XXL of 2011 and she wipeout. She said this is by far the worst wipeout she ever has had. She got slammed head first into a reef wall. She was rushed to the hospital where she had coral dug out of her face, which was followed by 30 stitches!! Wow. 

She has like Ultra Respect points with me!!  

Surfing is the greatest. It can be very dangerous, but also so much fun! It is such an amazing feeling when you surfed the wave everyone bailed on. Everyone has their wipeouts, yes they can scare you, but just get back on your board and go back out. Just keep paddling and remember... Eddie would go.

Me

Later